When I called Lords of the Manor to book the table, the French voice on the phone tactfully suggested that jeans and trainers would be inappropriate for the dining room. I couldn't agree more I'm so over jeans and trainers. A dress code that might have come across as incredibly square a year ago, suddenly sounded quite hip.
Lords of the Manor is the restaurant in the hotel of the same name in the village of Upper Slaughter, near Stow-on-the-Wold. It's the quintessence of Cotswold..........
PAINSWICK, England -- The main road through this picturesque village says a great deal about the timeless quality of the Cotswolds, a region of low, rolling hills in England's West Country.
A vision of tranquil English village life, the street is lined with charming, centuries-old stone houses and a half-timbered post office that dates from the Middle Ages........
But, as food preferences evolve, Britains great puddings, even the sweet variety, were being overlooked in favor of Black Forest cake and strawberry cheesecake. In 1985, to preserve this important piece of culinary heritage, Three Ways House Hotel, a historic hotel in the low hills called the Cotswolds in the county of Gloucestershire, 90 miles from London in southwest England, established the Pudding Club. The goal: to preserve the pudding from drifting into obscurity.......
What turned out to be one of our 'funnest' trip in years, unfortunately started out in a very stressful manner. But that's life. So let me tell you how it all began:
My partner Dianne Marie and I arrived at Heathrow Airport outside London, some 13 hours after leaving San Francisco. We immediately rented a car and attempted to drive to The Cotswolds. Yes, I said "attempted," because it took us forever to get there.
ED JONES is editor of The Free Lance-Star. He can be reached at 540/374-5401 or at edjones@freelancestar.com.
GLANCE AT THE stone walls inside the little old church in Sherborne, England, and you'll notice a roster of vicars who have graced the pulpit there. The list goes back 900 years.
But it was a reference of more recent vintage that caught my eye last week as I strolled around the sanctuary. A needlepoint pad for kneeling worshippers offered a simple but touching message: "God bless America. Stand beside her, and guide her. September 11, 2001."
That evening, as my wife, Peggy, and I were watching the BBC news in our rented cottage in the Cotswolds, 75 miles west of London, we heard about a survey that found that most Britons think it's time to put distance between their country and the United States in the war on terrorism.
Those sentiments surfaced as newspapers and TV reporters swarmed around the Labor Party infighting that forced Prime Minister Tony Blair, George W. Bush's most loyal and articulate ally in the post-9/11 period, to promise to step down from office within the next year. Blair, the fresh, boyish leader of the Brits a decade ago, has become stale..........
ED JONES is editor of The Free Lance-Star. He can be reached at 540/374-5401 or at edjones@freelancestar.com
I'M NOT PROUD of it, but I might as well confess. I recently purchased my very own copy of "British History for Dummies."
Now granted, there are many areas of expertise in which I would quickly qualify as a dummy. Plumbing and cooking are two that come to mind.
But being a dummy on British history hurts.
After all, I took a course on the Tudors in college. I subscribe to The Spectator, a weekly opinion journal from Britain that keeps me on top of politics across the pond.
I once had an electronic subscription to The Times of London. I still read an array of newspapers and magazines about the Church of England.
But as my wife, Peggy, and I prepare for a short trip to the Cotswolds, that rolling slice of England three hours west of London, I still feel like a dummy............
The Royal Shakespeare Company will prove that's true.
The troupe is sponsoring a yearlong festival at Stratford-upon-Avon, William Shakespeare's hometown, at which all of the Bard's 37 plays plus his sonnets and long poems will be performed.
It will be the first time that all of the works will be presented in a single event.
The festival will open on Shakespeare's birthday, April 23, and continue into April 2007..............
After spending the better part of last month in England, walking along the River Thames, a few random observations (mostly ecologically inspired) seem in order this week. So, with a tip of the hat to author Bill Bryson, who was encountered out there in a Cotswold field, here are some of my own "notes from a long, long river.".......
ARTICLES BY RALPH GREEN OF THE VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE AT STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
Archaeologists working on sites that include Roman Villas have found stone slates which are almost identical to those used today for the roofs of so many Cotswold houses. Unlike the factory tile, the stone slate is hand made. There are two types of limestone from which the slates are made, each type requiring a different method of production. One method is to extract the stone from near the surface of the ground and then, in the next few days, split it while it still contains natural moisture. This is the oldest method of obtaining Cotswold slate and was used by the Romans.
The other method is to mine blocks of limestone at considerable depth in the ground. The rough blocks are hoisted to the surface and laid out to become exposed to rain and then later to frost. The frost gradually splits the stone along its natural grain with the slaters assisting in the splitting process. The result is a slate that is much thinner and more regular than the earlier method. This is the slate seen on our finest buildings and was used extensively during the building of the Oxford colleges.
During their manufacture the nature of the stone means that it is impossible to supply them in consistent sizes, smaller slates are far more numerous than larger slates. Before the use of gutters became generally used, the roof was required to throw the rain water well clear of the walls, so to get maximum projection the largest stone slates were used along the eaves. This row or course is called 'cussoms', the next course above being called 'followers'. As the roof extends to the ridge so ever smaller courses are used, a useful way to accommodate all the different sizes of slate.
To prepare a building, wooden battens, or laths are fixed along the roof from which the slates will be hung. The distance between each batten decreases half an inch with each row, from the bottom upwards. This is because each row of slates is half an inch shorter than the one below it. The slates come from the quarry in batches by length, and there are thirty standard lengths, each with its own name. Starting from the top, the smallest are 'short pricks', then 'middle pricks', 'long pricks', 'short cuttings', 'middle cuttings', 'long cuttings'. Then 'monities', 'becks', 'bachelors', nines', wibbuts', and so on in longs, middles or shorts down to the 'follows' and 'cussoms' or 'eaves'. The slant of a stone roof is only 48º to 55º, against 65º for thatch. The slate will have a hole or perhaps two holes cut through near the top. The old way to cut the hole was for the slater to feel with his fingers for the thinnest point in the stone and then using a pointed hammer, carefully break through. Today drills are used. An oak peg is lightly driven into the hole until firm and then the pegged slate is hung over the batten. Stand in the Market Hall on Chipping Campden High Street and look up to the underside of the roof to see the slaters art at work. Something so simple and yet so skilful as never failed to amaze me. The finished roof is capped by a simple angled section of dressed stone. By looking carefully at the line of the roof, you will see that in the best examples it is not level but tilts up at the ends. It is not that the rest or the roof is sinking but that the end few slates are packed up to make the outer edge of each slate fit down tight so that the wind cannot get under it and blow it off. However, during building, the roof is intended to bow slightly under its immense load and this causes the slates to pack even more closely together offering an even more effective defence against the rain and snow.
Frost is the main cause of decay in slates, so if a roof is regularly scraped to remove the moisture bearing moss and with just the occasional replacement of a few slates then it could last as long as 300 years.
John James Hissey, when traveling in the Cotswolds in 1908 wrote:
The Cotswold type of house appeals to me on account of its honest construction, lastingness and simplicity. It is both built and roofed with stone; its walls are delightfully thick, so that the interior is warm in winter and cool in summer; its roof of thin split stones, sized down from the top to the eaves (the smallest being at the top), makes the loveliest covering possible to imagine, for these stone slates form a mosaic of many greys, ranging from cool to warm; nor are they laid with machine-like, monotonous regularity as are the blue slates or red tiles of a modern building, and their rough surfaces encourage the growth of gold and silver lichen, further enhancing their charm. The old builders understood the importance of a roof, and they took pains to make it beautiful, and they made it high pitched, the better to throw off the rain and the snow. A roof emphasises the shelter that a home gives to a man.
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